Living, Lagos style

After exploring the history, the beach, the jungle and the village, the last bits of our Nigerian adventure I want to highlight is the large city of Lagos itself. The bad (traffic), the bold (flavours) and the beautiful (fabrics, Victoria Island). So, without further adieu…

The traffic

It’s insane. I.N.S.A.N.E. I can’t think of any other word that sums up transportation in Lagos other than INSANE.

The first rule of driving in Lagos is there are no rules. Lines on the roads are a suggestion and so is the direction. It’s really just a “you do you” type or system:

Is the lane you’re currently driving in a fully congested hours-long “go-slow?” No worries, hop into opposing traffic and dodge the cars coming at you.
Do you need to take a short cut? Ok, but be prepared to drive an intense Motocross course of side roads, bottoming out your car at least eight times.
Are you going to have to do some “lapping” (sitting on laps) in a danfo bus? There’s no doubt.
Are you going to sit for over an hour to move 15 feet forward and there’s literally no other way out? If it’s Mushin Road, that’s a definite! And happened to us twice. ‘Mushin’ is a curse word in our household.
Can you use an okada (motorbike) as a moving truck? Why not!
Can you do your grocery shopping in traffic? YES! And Christmas shopping too. You can purchase anything when you’re in a “go-slow.” (We bought bluetooth speakers, shirts, snacks and electric adapters.)
Will your family of five fit on an okada (motorbike) to get to church? Of course it will, silly!

The flavours

The open-air food markets were a feast for the eyes and also a treat for your tummy. I mean, just look at those tomato-filled baskets! And then take a gander at the yams! They’re the size of a small child.

When we were staying in Ikeja, we would get street food for dinner most nights, which included items like roasted corn, roasted corn pears (think tiny avocados), sausage buns, garden eggs with spicy peanut sauce, fresh puff-puff, dried fish and fresh cut pineapple.

The following photos are from one of the open-air markets we visited in Lekki. They show you fresh-cut greens, the gigantic size of yams, big bowls of dried peppers — my eyes hurt just walking by them — a carpet of peppers drying out in the sun and a bunch of goats.

The fabrics

If you asked me what the colour of Lagos would be, I would say clay. Mostly because it’s the colour of the roads, and the majority of buildings have an earthy look to them. But those neutral tones make for the perfect backdrop to locals wearing the boldest and most vibrant of fits.

Which makes the Oshodi market in Lagos something to behold. Reams and reams of the most colourful and decadent fabrics are splayed out in front of you in all sorts of patterns. It’s almost impossible to choose because the minute you see one style you want, a minute later, you will see another you love even more.

I’m not gonna lie, going through the market is an intense experience, one I couldn’t have done without Chuck or our driver Gbenga nearby. I was such a fish out of water — not used to being stared at by so many — that it was a bit disconcerting and a good reminder of how Chuck has felt with me at places back home many a time.

We ended up visiting the market twice. The first time was to get me a ready-made dress for a burial ceremony. The second was to select a few bold bolts of cotton to get my own dresses custom made by a local seamstress. Both times, Chuck had a great time haggling on the price. The game of haggling is an art here and something I need to get better at. If you don’t spend at least five to 10 minutes arguing over the price, then you shouldn’t even be here. lol

The island

For our last full week in Nigeria, we decided to find a place where we could do some major relaxing. Or as Chuck called it, “chillaxing.” 😎 We ended up in Victoria Island at a beautiful hotel called The Lagos Continental that had a rocking pool with an exceptional view.

I love a good pool. To me, it’s more important than the free wifi (and that’s saying something!). And to give you an idea of how affordable Lagos is, this hotel was like staying at a Four Seasons at Holiday Inn prices.

Every day we would end up at the pool in the late afternoon to enjoy a sun-filled swim and lounge around with some snacks, drinks and cigars.

While we were there, maybe three other groups of people came by for a swim or to lounge. MAYBE THREE! If this were an all-inclusive in Cancun, people would be shoving each other to get a lounger or paying big money to get a cabana. Here? Nada.

When we weren’t relaxing at the hotel, we were checking out Victoria Island’s cool dining spots, exploring the museum and walking in the treetops.