Greetings from Istanbul, Türkiye, where depending on which direction the Metro takes you, you might find yourself in Asia or Europe. And, tbh, I didn’t have a clue which one I was in at any given moment the entire time I was there.
What an astoundingly vibrant city Istanbul is. This was the first stop on an 18-day adventure through Turkey and Greece. Two beautiful countries that are similar in many ways, but especially in their disdain (putting it mildly) for each other. But, as Chuck and I are neither Turkish nor Greek, we couldn’t have asked for two more welcoming places to explore.
Hello from the Imperial Hall at Topkapi Palace.
The view of the Bosphorus Strait and Istanbul from the roof of Tershane restaurant.
The delicious mezze the chef put together for us at Tershane restaurant.
We found the people in Istanbul to be friendly, helpful, funny and kind. Oh, and also boisterous and aggressive. I love moving around in a city that is full of people going about their business in every direction with every emotion. It just makes me feel more alive.
“All other cities are mortal, but I think Istanbul will breathe as long as people are.” ~ Petrus Gyllius
We decided to arrive a few days before our tour began to explore the city on our own. And I’m so glad we did. There’s nothing like discovering a city on your own. We spent five days in Istanbul and it wasn’t nearly enough time. The best cities always make you feel that way. And this is definitely one of the BEST cities! Here’s what it looked like to us:
The vibes
I think what will stay with me the most about Istanbul is its contradictions.
Conservative, but also progressive. Old, but also racing towards modernism. Quiet at moments, over-dramatic in many others. And endlessly fascinating.
Like this video of a belly dancer dancing with a woman in a hijab.
Whatever bias I had about this place when I arrived was turned on its head and covered in a cozy cashmere pashmina by the time I left. ♥️
A view of Suleymaniye Mosque at dusk from Galata Bridge.
The whimsical Fermeneciler Street with lots of fish restaurants in Karakoy.
Galata Bridge and Yeni Mosque.
Rainy photos on the rooftop of Lucia Lounge.
Asia to the left, Europe on the right. A view of Istanbul from Tershane restaurant.
The Grand Bazaar continues outside the covered mall area. It’s so large.
What’s so interesting? This is just outside the Grand Bazaar.
The view from the rooftop at Lucia Lounge, where we went for coffee and tea before going for dinner.
The view of the Bosphorus at night from Tershane restaurant in Karakoy.
A view of Suleymaniye Mosque from Tershane Karaköy.
The eclectic side streets off Istiklal Street.
Boating down the Bosphorus.
A cool shop on Istiklal Street.
Walk wherever you want on Istiklal Street, don’t mind the tram.
Enjoying a rest and some coffee at Cafe Bianchi.
A view of the medieval Galata Tower from The Bosphorus.
Hello from Church of St. Anthony of Padua.
The vibrant and busy street of Istiklal.
Hello from Istiklal Street in front of Taksim mosque.
Lighting a candle at Church of St. Anthony of Padua.
Walking under words on Istiklal Street (Istiklal Caddesi).
Taking in a cigar while taking in the Bosphorus.
The busy Bosphorus at night.
Watching the hustle and bustle of Galata Bridge from Tershane restaurant.
The wind taking my hair with it.
The food
The food was superb in Turkey. Like Greek food but spicier. I could not get enough of all the culinary delights we tried. Even a fish sandwich was out of this world. (And I hardly like fish on a good day.)
I’m like Martin Short in Only Murders in the Building, I love a good dip. So when the waiter would approach and say, “want me to put a mezze together for you?” I was in heaven. I fell head over heels for acılı ezme (spicy tomato and pepper salad) and pretty much every dish that was put in front of me.
And there are nuts in everything! Walnuts, pistachios, almonds, hazelnuts are present for breakfast, lunch, dinner and dessert. Sooooo good, unless you have a nut allergy.
Yum yum Turkish Delight
Picking out Turkish delights at the 160 year old Hafız Mustafa Confectionary.
Our dinner including the most amazing lamb at Tershane restaurant in Karakoy.
Hello from Tershane rooftop restaurant!
The delicious mezze the chef put together for us at Tershane restaurant.
Baklava from Hafiz Mustafa and the best sesame snack bar I’ve ever had.
A display of delicious-looking Turkish Delight treats.
Getting coffee at Cafe Bianchi in the Old City of Istanbul.
A delectable pistachio croissant at Cafe Bianchi.
Turkish food tour
Before we arrived, I did some research on taking a food tour of Istanbul. I found one that was so highly rated on TripAdvisor, we had to try it. We did, it was excellent.
We started with a bit of street food called cig kofte, which was put in a piece of iceberg lettuce and squeezed with lemon. OMG, I’m still thinking about that one. We then walked up the street to sample tahini Turkish Delight before heading over to a rooftop restaurant to sip on coffee and tea.
About to taste the most amazing thing called cig kofte from a street vendor in Ali Usta. This is the plant-based version, not the raw meat one.
Turkish delights at the sweet shop, Lokum Atolyesi.
Trying tahini Turkish delight at Lokum Atolyesi sweet shop.
Drinking Turkish tea at Lucia Lounge.
Drinking Turkish coffee with small chocolates and a water chaser at Lucia Lounge.
Acili ezme (spicy ground salad), gavurdagi salatasi (the guest salad) and cacik (yoghurt side dish) at Siirt Seref Buryan 1892 restaurant.
Shaving the meat off the hook at Siirt Seref Buryan 1892.
Eating as much mezze as I can at all times.
After the warm drinks we were off to a third location, Siirt Şeref Buryan 1892, to have a traditional dinner. There was soooo much food. The mezze was a great start of ezme, salatasi (guest salad) and cacik (yogurt dish). We then tried perde pilavi (curtain rice), adana kebabi (traditional Turkish kebab), tavuk sis (grilled chicken with mangal seasoning), buryan (hanging lamb kebab), ayran (yogurt drink) and kunefe (a crispy cheese dessert). They lit dishes on fire (kunefe), they cut into a pastry dish for it to collapse and reveal the curtain rice and they shaved lamb off for our kebabs. We were chock-full of warm spices and sweet honeyed kunefe dreams by the time we rolled ourselves out of there.
Watching the Kunefe (crispy and cheesy dessert) burn at Siirt Seref Buryan 1892 restaurant.
Serving the Kunefe (crispy and cheesy dessert) after it has been on fire and topped off with honey and pistachios at Siirt Seref Buryan 1892 restaurant.
Kunefe (crispy and cheesy dessert) at Siirt Seref Buryan 1892 restaurant.
The shopping
One of the places I was really looking forward to visiting was The Grand Bazaar. We had it already listed as a stop on our tour itinerary, but I wanted to go before the tour started as I needed to find a head covering for the mosques we would be visiting.
I’m glad we did because the tour guide took us to the bazaar before it was even open and let us do no exploring or shopping there. Terrible. I felt for the others on our tour as you could see they wanted to explore the vast labyrinth of shops and actually, you know, shop!
So, back to our first visit. We arrived, found an amazing pashmina for me to cover up with, then we just walked and walked and walked and got lost in the maze of hallways.
The amazing tea varieties at Spice Market.
Hello from The Grand Bazaar!
Iznik ceramics often feature cat figurines with intricate floral patterns inspired by Ottoman art.
The spices get emotional at the Spice Market. Also, “husband card” lol
Cat pillows at Spice Market, of course.
Getting a Turkish rug lesson from this gentleman who tried SO HARD to get us to buy one. They are gorgeous but WAY WAY out of budget.
A shop of guitars and ouds (grandfather of modern-day guitar) on Istiklal Street.
A few of the ornate linens at Grand Bazaar.
Hanging out with the best salesman around at a confectionary store full of Turkish Delight.
I didn’t buy much else at the bazaar, but it wasn’t from a lack of being coerced. The shop sellers, who were mostly men, constantly approached Chuck to “spend some money on your honey!”
We sipped tea while listening to the most thorough lesson on Turkish rug making. Inhaled the most amazing aromas of teas, perfumes and spices. Tasted samples here, there and literally everywhere. Touched the softest and most heavenly cashmeres and silks. Honestly, every shop we passed by, whether it was at the bazaar, or the Spice Market, or Istiklal Street, or even the streets near our hotel, were a feast for all our senses.
One of the grand hallways at The Grand Bazaar.
The fancy glass and lanterns in the Grand Bazaar.
Venturing through the Spice Market. Smells amazing.
The men who serve tea to shoppers at The Grand Bazaar.
Dried vegetables (dried eggplant is the darkest one) hanging in stores in the Spice Market.
The cats!
Pretty sure the cats are running every inch of Istanbul. Or at least you know they think they are. There wasn’t a spot we visited where we didn’t see the furry little menaces. And they all look like they are thriving. People don’t shoo them away, there are bowls of kibble everywhere and they don’t have to live under any human constraint. This is THE LIFE for a cat.
This cat will take you on a stunning, yet sleepy, tour of the Blue Mosque.
This cat will show you how he runs the entire neighbourhood by our hotel.
These cats are here to choose the right produce for you.
This cat will take you down Istiklal Street to Church of St. Anthony of Padua.
These kittens are too young to show you around the Spice Market, but they will try their best.
This cat will take you around Sultanahmet historic district.
This cat will show you around Topkapi Palace.
This cat will show you around the Grand Bazaar.
The mosques
Tip: Don’t use mosques to try and orient your location in Istanbul. They have over 3,000! And many of them look similar, but the two we visited were iconic. Taking our first steps inside both Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque stopped us in our tracks. Breathtaking.
Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque)
Built in the 17th century, Blue Mosque is one of the most magnificent structures of the Ottoman Empire. The building is known for its many domes and semidomes and also for the the colour of its interior, which is adorned with over 20,000 blue Iznik tiles, which give the mosque its name. It is stunning!!!
The ceiling inside one of the most famous religious buildings in the world.
Shoes off and voices subdued as you walk around soaking in absolute beauty from every arch to every corner in Blue Mosque.
Mesmeric designs with flowing arabesques are painted on the mosque’s domes and semidomes.
Standing in awe at the beauty of Blue Mosque.
The lavish blue Iznik Tiles are what give the Blue Mosque its name.
Hello from the Blue Mosque.
Over 250 windows flood the mosque with light.
The entrance to the Blue Mosque.
The mosque was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I and built from 1609 to 1616 by Mehmet Aga, the imperial architect.
The courtyard at the Blue Mosque.
Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque
One of the world’s great monuments, Hagia Sophia was built as a Christian church in the 6th century and later became a mosque, then a museum, now it’s a mosque again. It’s renowned for its architecture, particularly its gigantic dome, its lavish mosaics and its complex history as a place of worship for both Christians and Muslims.
Hagia Sophia’s dome is 31 meters in diameter and rises to a height of 56 meters above the ground.
Hello from Hagia Sophia!
That expression on The Seraphim Mosaic. Not having it. This mosaic was created during the Byzantine era and later restored during the 14th century.
The Deesis mosaic in Hagia Sophia depicts a scene of the Last Judgment, featuring Christ flanked by the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist.
The altar (mihrab) of Hagia Sophia.
The hallways at Hagia Sophia offer glimpses of the building’s past through remnants of mosaics, carved crosses and inscriptions.
The Comnenus mosaics date back to 1122.
The mosaic of Jesus Christ with Emperor Constantine and Empress Zoe dates back to 1042.
The Virgin and Child mosaic dates back to 867. One of the oldest in the church.
Learning about Hagia Sophia and all its religious charms from our great guide Erdem.
The ceiling in the vestibule that features a mosaic of the Virgin Mary with Christ.
Being demure, mindful and respectful at Hagia Sophia.
The palace
After visiting those iconic mosques, I didn’t think Istanbul could wow me even more. But then Topkapi Palace entered the chat. The brash minx. I have visited castles before and did the proper “oohing” and “ahhing,” but this place, in this city, delighted me to no end.
The harem rooms
Dating back to the 16th century, the Imperial Harem was where the sultan’s wives, concubines and children lived. And if you were a man that wasn’t the sultan, or his sons, the only way you gained access was if you were a eunuch. 😮 Ouch.
I was struck at how lovely the decor was. There was an abundance of exquisite tile work of floral patterns (iznik tiles) and Quranic inscriptions (written in Thuluth script) flowing from room to room. The harem’s blend of Ottoman design with influences from Byzantine, Persian and European styles made for the most jaw-dropping “open house” tour I had ever been on. I didn’t inquire about the asking price though.
Walking around The Harem at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Hello from the Imperial Hall at Topkapi Palace.
The Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Tiled walls in the Baths of the Sultan and Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace Museum.
A wall full of beautiful Turkish tiles in the Apartments of the Queen Mother in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace Museum.
In the Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace Museum.
The Imperial Hall at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Main gate to the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace Museum.
A window in the Twin Kiosk at the Imperial Harem buildings at Topkapi Palace Museum.
In the Courtyard of the Black Eunuchs in the Imperial Harem at Topkapi Palace Museum.
The domes
All I’ll say is never forget to look up when in Istanbul.
A ceiling dome at Topkapi Palace Museum.
A ceiling dome in the kitchens at Topkapi Palace Museum.
The ceiling in the Privy Chamber/Chamber of Sacred Relics at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Dome of the Privy Chamber of Murad III at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Dome of the Imperial Hall at Topkapi Palace Museum.
The views
The palace grounds are so spacious that even though it was busy with people, it didn’t feel cramped. It was a beautiful place to explore on a sunny day.
Views of the Bosphorus from the Treasury Room balconies at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Posing with a guard at Topkapi Palace museum.
Library of Ahmet III at Topkapi Palace Museum.
The Twin Kiosk at the Imperial Harem buildings at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Views of the Bosphorus from the Treasury Room balconies at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Gorgeous window at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Library of Ahmet III at Topkapi Palace Museum.
The artifacts
The palace also houses the Chamber of the Holy Relics, which is considered the most sacred space within the palace, holding items of immense religious and historical importance. One of the most famous being the curved emerald dagger, which was made in 1746 as a gift to the Shah of Persia.
Verses from an ancient Quran in the Chamber of Sacred Relics at Topkapi Palace Museum.
The Privy Chamber/Chamber of Sacred Relics at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Golden teapot at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Intricate Turkist tile patterns from the Ottoman Empire at Topkapi Palace Museum, Istanbul, Turkey
The Topkapi Emerald Dagger is a jewel-studded, curved dagger, or jambiya, made in 1746 as a gift to the Shah of Persia. The dagger’s emerald-encrusted handle and jewel-encrusted golden sheath showcase exquisite Ottoman craftsmanship. It’s a symbol of Ottoman power and status, valued at over 50 million dollars today.
An assortment of holy books in the Chamber of Sacred Relics at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Old coins at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Jewelry from the Ottoman Empire in the Chamber of Sacred Relics at Topkapi Palace Museum.
Ornate kettle at Topkapi Palace Museum.
The Kaftans
The kaftan’s worn by the Sultans were astounding in both the quality of the textiles and the simplicity of the patterns. I was so obsessed with memorizing the detail on each one that I had to be physivally dragged out of that building.
A 16th Century silk and cotton kaftan that belonged to Sultan Selim on display at Topkapi Palace Museum, Istanbul, Turkey
A display of “Talismanic Shirts” made of cotton, ink, gold leaf and dye. 16th Century. The inscribed names are believed to be capable of offering protection and guidance to the carrier. The were worn to protect against evils and also intended as a shield in battle.
A stunning, almost paper-thin “Talismanic Shirt” made of cotton, ink, gold leaf and dye.
An Italian silk kaftan from the Ottoman Empire on display at Topkapi Palace Museum, Istanbul, Turkey
A 16th century silk and cotton kaftan worn by Sultan Selim from the Ottoman Empire on display at Topkapi Palace Museum, Istanbul, Turkey
That was Istanbul in 2025. We saw a lot and also left a lot on the table. I know in my heart I will always want to go back again.
